'I think most Americans perceive — not unjustly — classic French as being heavy, weighty. The French cuisine I really fell in love with deals primarily with the Parisian markets.'
Restaurant critic Bill Addison pinpoints seven recent reviews, from a carnitas food truck to a tiny Japanese wonder, that illustrate the city’s amazing dining culture.Although Beran has embraced ephemeral menus throughout his career, he wanted to cook French at Pasjoli because, he says, “It’s what I started cooking first. I love it.”
Matthew Kim, right, was Beran's sous chef at Dialogue and, before that, at Next in Chicago. He becomes Pasjoli's chef de cuisine. “The French cuisine I really fell in love with deals primarily with the Parisian markets. If you go at the right time of the year, it’s not about the weight, it’s about the freshness,” Beran says. He wants to showcase that lesser-known, lighter side of French cooking at Pasjoli, bolstered by Southern California’s seasonal produce.
Pasjoli's thon à la Provençale, a tuna and tomato dish, will help the restaurant showcase the lighter side of traditional French cooking.
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