What’s truly new about the white dresses trend is the impressive diversity, from elegant yogawear to downright outré bare-all statements.
High summer. Rebirth. Romance. Wealth. Purity. Feminine virtue. For better or for worse, the white dress has embodied much symbolism through the ages. However, the spring/summer 2024 runways presented new spins on this timeless piece, with designers casting aside dusty old references and instead using the classic look as a tabula rasa for expression—proof that white dresses needn’t be reserved for places of worship or even town halls.
, a painting by 19th-century British artist Edwin Long. The artwork, which is based on Herodotus’ writings about ancient Babylon, depicts a group of young women who’ve been gathered up, shined like apples and dressed in white robes and are being auctioned off to the highest bidder. Mary, Queen of Scots—arguably as ill-fated as her Babylonian predecessors—was among the first high-profile brides to wear a white dress when she wed her first husband, Francis, Dauphin of France, in 1558.
The iconic white dress’ fortunes began to turn when Queen Victoria chose to wear one for her wedding to Prince Albert, the beginning of what would be a long-standing and by all accounts loving union. Their 1840 nuptials served to solidify the puffy white gown’s status as not only a recognizable bridal costume but also a symbol of Victorian modesty and an indicator of the bride’s family’s wealth given the hefty laundry bill that would come with cleaning it later.
Although the white dress has been standard bridalwear since Victorian times, the film, fashion and music industries have been working overtime to turn the associated purity trope on its head.
Designers’ visions for a new generation of white dresses are setting a different tone for summer and its many events. But the attitude of the wearer—be they a bride, a punk princess, a skin-baring badass or a daring dancer—will be the icing on the cake with one of this season’s statement-making options.
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