At Varenyk House, in Queens, the owner Stepan Rogulskyi offers an array of varenyky, meats, and hot dishes, and is collecting donations to be sent to Ukraine.
The other day, on a corner in Ridgewood, Queens, I overheard a woman say, “You know that place is owned by Ukrainians?” She was pointing to Varenyk House, a year-old deli and grocery across the street, where I happened to be headed. “It’s a Ukrainian restaurant.” Her companion squinted. “Interesting!” he said earnestly.
Varenyky, hand-folded into half-moons, might be stuffed with a mixture of farmer cheese, potato, and onion. Taking an interest in Ukrainian food following Russia’s vicious and unprovoked military campaign against its smaller neighbor might seem like a meagre response. But after a conversation with Varenyk House’s owner, Stepan Rogulskyi, I saw value in the gesture. When news of the war broke, Rogulskyi, who emigrated, in 2008, from western Ukraine, where his brothers, parents, and grandparents still live, experienced a period of acute, almost unbearable stress.
I stocked up on the frozen, with a tub of high-fat sour cream to toss them in. From a steam table, I got cabbage leaves stuffed with barley and mushrooms and ladled with mushroom gravy; a succulent pork chop, smothered in fried onions; and golden, craggy orbs of ground-chicken schnitzel. Each was served with a choice of rice, barley , or mashed potatoes, plus cold salads—tart shredded beets, cucumbers slathered in sour cream, radish coins with farmer cheese and scallions.
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