Our diner-at-large gets dragged to brunch.
, hosted by Essa Noche in the bistro of the restaurant, was the toniest setting we could have imagined for an afternoon of eggs with a side of tucking panties. The crowd matched — so many YSL bags. There were a table of wine moms from Essex County with perfect roots, a woman wearing a cupcake hat celebrating her birthday, a five top passing around a drowsy baby over margarita punch bowls. Earlier, I had asked the maître d’ what kinds of people usually come to this, and she said, “Everyone.
The food arrived snappily — steak and eggs and crispy potatoes cooked how you want them — along with green juice and a round of espresso martinis. Essa Noche, serving body in zebra fishnet stockings and a sheer denim bralet with matching panties, ran through the rules: to have fun and, most important, to tip. Xunami Muse, daughter ofAll Star Kandy Muse, walked around the restaurant with a turquoise beach bucket in our first opportunity to “exercise our tipping muscles.
The drag I knew happened in gay bars, where the funk of sweat, alcohol, and sex commingle from bodies crowding closer together for a view of a queen letting loose onstage. Bam! Death drop, duckwalk, drama. We scream like confetti cannons. This was the stuff of nighttime, the original backdrop of queer life, when people could be themselves under the slip of darkness and you could see God at 2 a.m.
After changing out of shiny gold heels into gray New Balance sneakers, Essa Noche wrapped up the afternoon with a bidding war to determine the final song she would perform. The cupcake hat offered $20 for Madonna’s “Borderline.” Another cranked it up to $100 for Dua Lipa’s “Levitating.” Then the real stunner: a $150 Venmo payment for “Toxic” by up-and-coming artist Britney Spears. Our table was gooped, gagged, gobsmacked — not just by the amount but the song choice.
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