Highly Recommend: These anchovy, olive, and pepper skewers at Adarra in Richmond, Virginia.
, a column dedicated to our very opinionated editors’ favorite things to eat, drink, and buy.
I’m that person who always orders too much food at a restaurant. Maybe it’s because I’m indecisive. Maybe it’s because my eyes are bigger than my stomach. Or maybe it’s because the abundance of options awakens a deep survivalist instinct, urging me to amass as many nutrients as possible. Regardless, whatever table I’m at is the one where the plates quickly pile up.
Wait, I actually do. We should have ordered a dozen more, because that’s just how good chef Randall Doetzer’s gildas are—perfectly salty, buttery, lip-tinglingly sour, and just a tiny bit spicy, the kind that makes you want another. This perfection comes from tinkering with the three ingredients to strike the right balance of fat, acid, and salt. But because they’re all either seasonal or available at the whim of an importer, Doetzer has to regularly search for new ones to swap onto the skewer. Sometimes it’s a mild, fruity Castelvetrano olive, other times it’s two Picholine from Morocco. On occasion it’s a guindilla pepper from Basque country with a sharp, super acidic flavor; other times it’s one that’s a bit mellower.
While constantly having to source new ingredients sounds like a logistical nightmare, it’s all part of the fun for Doetzer. “It would be kind of boring if we had an indefinite supply of perfect olives—it would never ever change,” he explained. The only thing I’m looking to change? The number of gildas I order next time I’m there.
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