'The sweets alone are reason to come to the restaurant.' BillAddison reviews Bon Temps in the Arts District:
Women are transforming baking’s status in the culinary world and California is at the center of that shift.Carson’s glassed-in kitchen, perched above the entrance, overlooks the whole scene like a command center. At a time when many restaurants view desserts as an afterthought — throw together a sundae, outsource a chocolate cake — Carson goes willfully in the other direction. He creates a sense of occasion by honoring the art of pastry.
I’m particularly taken with the kitchen’s command of fish. Mackerel served with tomato and eggplant is a simple, lyrical starter; a green garlic pesto offsets the oiliness of the fish. Black bass rests in a sauce flavored with saffron and fennel that conjures bouillabaisse; its smoothness summons a textbook bistro bisque. King salmon comes with mightily seared skin, its crunch echoed in small fried artichokes, the centers of which bloom like tea roses.
It hurts this dessert lover’s heart that so many avid restaurant-goers shun pastry chefs’ temptations. Give Carson’s masterpieces their deserved chance. Is the St. Honoré too much for you? Go for the chocolate souffle, the intricacies of its flavor teased out by chartreuse ice cream. Carson coats the souffle’s billowing border with large sugar crystals for crunch; one can’t help but rip off cakey hunks by hand.
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