Phoebe English is leading the charge for sustainability in fashion at LFW, one WhatsApp message at a time.
Who wants to be on the wrong side of history? Not I. Nor any of the young designers, students, teenagers, and children whom I’m lucky enough to know in London, and up and down the United Kingdom.
As London Fashion Week starts, British antiestablishment activism is on the agenda, from the Brexit conflagration taking place at the center of the democratic system to the Extinction Rebellion movement’s intention to target fashion as a culprit in the global climate emergency. On the face of it, uproar and polarized politics are the name of the game. To say the least, these are distressing times.
But meanwhile, London’s long tradition of collaborative youth-generated do-it-yourself creative resistance is working away on making things better more energetically than I have ever witnessed, certainly more intelligently, resourcefully, and nonconfrontationally than its parents’ generation of punks ever did in the ’70s and ’80s.
“The main thing was this realization that there was a such a big appetite for working in this way, that there are a lot of designers working away on this trajectory in their studios, but with no cross-communication,” she says. “But now there’s so much urgency with the climate emergency, and wanting to change the way we’re living, how we’re consuming and living, that it’s really important for all of us to find methods to speed it up.
What began as a simple, personal show-and-tell about replacements for nonrecyclable hangers, a manufacturer who takes back plastic packaging, and a method of retrieving fabric waste to recycle into intricate patchworks and linings has swiftly escalated into an information-exchanging WhatsApp group, Fashion on Earth, which is daily being joined by designers, students, and young people who are working at bigger brands whose employers are seeking effective ways to shape up their production methods.
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