The sake is local; the process, unique
Amid the buzz of fluorescent lights, the intermittent chug of a refrigerator condenser and the flapping hiss of an industrial-size gas flame, Mick Jagger’s voice rises and falls:Roll this joint, going to get down low“Exile on Main Street” is blasting from a small stereo that’s tucked under cleaning supplies and stainless steel tools in an industrial park in Covina, Calif. The Rolling Stones are in full effect on this summer evening, and so is 36-year-old sake brewer James Jin.
“There’s so many things I have to remember,” Jin says, as he continues to listen to the Stones. “There’s so many things I have to be careful about. I consider it a form of meditation. Especially in the middle of the night. I feel like everybody else is sleeping and I’m all alone. This music is flowing in my head. I feel like I’m dancing inside. It makes me happy.”Jin’s path to Nova Brewing wasn’t exactly a straight line.
The weight of his own expectations was almost unbearable. “Not knowing what to do with my life. Feeling like I’m making absolutely no change or impact on the world. … Feeling like my life has been wasted,” he recalls. “These thoughts were always in my head since [the] first year of college.” Jin purchases rice that has already been processed in a machine that “polishes” the surface of the grain, or hull, to get rid of protein, fats and lipids, leaving the starchy core. He then washes, soaks and drains the rice before it is steamed.
“We are putting new twists to it. … I respect their history and the culture of brewing, but I took what I learned and I turned it into my own style of modern sake. It’s a lot more appealing to the younger generation. More wine-like, fruitier, higher in acidity, juicy, very fun to pair with food, especially cheese.
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