Togue Brawn is obsessed with Maine scallops. She wants you to be, too.
Togue Brawn sits on cobblestones between two piers, preparing a makeshift picnic on top of a block of granite as dozens of seagulls watch unblinkingly from surrounding rooftops. She unpacks jars of salt and achar and olive oil and, finally, the meal’s centerpiece: a plastic to-go container full of raw scallops, hauled out of the ocean only yesterday.
“I started this business to show that [our] scallops are truly different,” Brawn says, noting that the state’s close-to-shore scallop populations gives scallops harvested in different areas their own regional “merroir,” like oysters; some taste creamy, others sweet, still others have a bitter algae bite.
This treatment contrasts with the “wet” scallops that result when dealers use sodium tripolyphosphate as a preservative, which imparts an abrasive sweetness. For Brawn, ”wet” also refers to the process of soaking scallops on melting ice, which increases their weight and therefore their selling price. Perhaps even more unforgivable to her, waterlogged scallops are “rubbery and broken-down and gross,” she says.
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