For your consideration: Good Food Things
I can’t stop thinking about food. Everything is falling apart, but all I can think about is the softness of fondant icing when you press in a birthday candle. Refreshing the application form for Universal Credit, I daydream about biting the heads off jelly babies. I scroll through terrible news while thinking about the snap of fridge-cold chocolate. Idly threading spaghetti hoops onto the prongs of a fork, finding a Minstrel down the back of the sofa, kissing a freshly-steamed bao on its bottom.
I started noticing these food pleasures a couple of years ago. At a time when bullshit wellness chat seemed to be reaching its zenith, writing down these moments of food joy became a kind of peaceable resistive act. If food was going to be a focus of endless speculation, suspicion and fuss, I figured we should at least let our curiosity guide us towards those food details that bring us joy. Instead of calories, I wanted to zoom in on the smell of a just-opened packet of Percy Pigs.
As soon as I started posting the lists, my notifications filled with chatter about the crispy edges of lasagne, butter melting on oven-warm bread and the art of unfurling a cinnamon bun to reach the sweet, doughy middle. Some people talked about strings of molten pizza cheese and the jumble of textures in samosa chaat. Others daydreamed about wafer-less KitKats and ghee bubbling on hot parathas. There were a few common themes. Butter, bread, pasta, cheese, and potatoes came up over and over.
When lockdown came into effect last month, I started revisiting these food pleasures. I hadn’t planned to orchestrate some grand revival. It just happened as if by some psychological reflex: the more overwhelming everything became, the more space food took up in my thoughts. With uncertainty about all the big stuff — work, health, family, money — looming larger than ever, I found comfort in the details.
Your food pleasures won’t be the same as mine — the best of them emerge from deep within the routines and rituals of one person’s life. It takes one thousand normal mouthfuls to taste a particularly delicious one for what it is. You can’t know how lovely it is to eat two chocolate buttons stuck bottom-to-bottom unless you’ve munched through countless lone stragglers.
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