When you accidentally overcook your veggies, keep cooking them
So much of cooking is reactionary. We think about the food our parents prepared for us, or the dishes that restaurants served ten years ago, and smirk about how backwards it all used to be. “Can youWhen I was learning to cook vegetables, the prevailing attitude of teenager-ly culinary defiance could be summed up in two words:we didn't want to eat them!” We vowed to atone for their mushy sins.
. They were cooked to the point of collapse, completely soft and yielding, a process that took two whole hours. Seasoned with nothing more than olive oil, garlic, and salt , they were insanely delicious: deeply vegetal, rich and satisfying, completely yielding in texture but maintaining definition. They turned my whole vegetable-cooking world upside down. I didn't miss the crunch. I just wanted more.
I realize now that the reason we didn't like vegetables growing up wasn't because our parents cooked vegetables to death—it was because they cooked them to death. They cooked in water. They were afraid of fat. They thought of salt as a controlled substance. With a little care, soft-cooked vegetables can be more satisfying than any raw kale salad could ever dream of being.
We developed a formula for long-cooked vegetables so good it had editors' eyes rolling back in their heads—just follow these rules, and you're golden. So go on.Opt for ones that have plenty of water in them to begin withfor a bit before most of it cooks off, leaving you with a satisfying, well-seasoned, olive oil-infused veggie liquor. Thereally love this cooking method—cabbage, broccoli and rabe, all the kales, those kinds of things—as well as.
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