Pizza toast, a quintessential kissaten dish, seems simple because it is. So why does this version at a Portland cafe feel so special?
on North Williams is, by no means, a kissaten. If anything, it feels like a sweet little neighborhood coffee shop: couples chat over cardamom lattes, 30-somethings work from their laptops. If it weren’t for the shokupan plushies, the dancing toast artwork on the walls, and the plastic-wrapped loaves of square milk bread in the case, the average passerby, looking at the tables, may not put together that it is, in fact, a toast bar.
But when I walk into Kimura, I head straight for these toasts; in particular, the pizza toast, topped with all-beef hot dogs. It arrives on an inch-thick slab of shokupan, which gets such a perfect, crispy exterior that it seems impossible, like some sort of plastic prop. At the center hides soft milk bread fluff, sweet and just a touch yeasty, sort of like what you want Wonder Bread to taste like . It supports a super-slight layer of tomato sauce — it’s not glomped on — and a sheet of melty muenster, one that doesn’t break or accrue dots of brown.
“It is somehow reminiscent of square school cafeteria pizza, pizza bagels, and ballpark franks all at the same time and in the best way.” This morning ritual was as close as I got to pizza toast, outside of the coveted snacks forbidden in my somewhat-crunchy Oregon household: Totino’s Pizza Rolls, Hot Pockets, and pizza bagels were all illicit delicacies reserved for summer camp snack bars and sleepovers.
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