The most exciting sweets in Paris are all about low sugar and high whimsy.
, the perfect ratio of sweetness to acidity, as he recasts classic desserts of his childhood—marble cake, the madeleine, rice pudding—into gastronomic trompe l’oeil. “Attaining ‘juste sucre’ allows one to enjoy desserts without being overwhelmed by too much sugar,” Perret says. “When something is too sweet, you feel the need to have a glass of water after the dessert. With balance, flavor will evolve in the mouth, like a sip of fine wine.
He uses sweetness sparingly, often replacing refined sugar with honey or fruit reductions, and employs intense caramelization to add depth to desserts. This is seen in Perret’s popular Entremets Madeleine, a light-as-air, oversized sponge cake sweetened with chestnut honey as well as his Crème Caramel, a dessert that achieves hearty tang thanks to salted and heavily caramelized sugars plus crisp, roasted almonds.Savory ingredients, too, make less sweet desserts compelling.
Bartocetti’s newest creation exemplifies how he taps into fermentation to let raw ingredients sing. A rainbow of fresh, marinated citrus is flavored with sweetened rice cream and served alongside zest-flecked sake ice cream topped with a vinaigrette of olive oil, lime, lemon and pink pomelo. For this year’s yule log, an almost too-chic- to-eat homage to the orchid, Bartocetti used Meyer lemon zest and quasi-bitter Tulakalum cacao from Belize to strike a balance with the dessert’s sweeter elements, almond biscuit, hazelnut praline and clover infused cream.Seaweed? Dark beer? Barley crumble? Celebrated for her rogue approach to desserts, the 33-year-old head pastry chef at
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