Go to Paris for the baguettes and souffles; stay for the jiaozi, the sweetbreads in XO sauce, and the caramel chicken
, broken up by tiny bites of pasta as palate cleansers. Using this Japanese technique to prepare an ever-shifting collection of Mediterranean-skewing dishes is innovative and daring; it’s also part of that long trend.
Business partners and sisters Tatiana and Katia Levha’s first restaurant, Le Servan, opened in 2013 and made serious waves both in the Paris food world and. At the time, the mix of French bistro cooking and Asian techniques and ingredients seemed novel. Now, it’s clear the restaurant helped usher in a wave of new Parisian cooking.
While Double Dragon ranges widely, the newly opened restaurant Cheval d’Or from Paris power players Taku Sekine and Florent Ciccoli takes primary inspiration from a former workaday Chinese restaurant whose sign still graces the front. Sekine came to Paris from Japan after working for Alain Ducasse in Tokyo, and made his name with Dersou, a neo-bistro with a Japanese bent known for pairing each course with a cocktail.
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