The 16Arlington fall 2023 collection is here. See every look:
Like any self-respecting Italian, Marco Capaldo begins his morning with multiple coffees. It’s a ritual that he hadn’t really given much thought until he settled on a concept for his fall collection, the third since the passing of his creative and romantic partner Kikka Cavenati in 2021.
While Capaldo’s show was staged at the same venue as the past two—a bright and airy skylit drill hall in the heart of Bloomsbury—stepping into the space today revealed something more forbidding. The initial sensory rush was the room’s bracing odor: the entire floor was covered in the powdery shimmer of coffee grounds.
On paper, the nods to coffee may read a little on the nose—food and fashion typically make for peculiar bedfellows—but it made sense once the clothes emerged; not least because 16Arlington already does a roaring trade in outfits and bags across a decadent spectrum of chocolate browns.
Where last year’s fall collection felt like a major leap forward for the brand, the following season was more of a gentle evolution. This time around, Capaldo made another step in a bolder direction. First, there were a handful of menswear pieces in the mix: an ambition of Capaldo and Cavenati’s from the beginning, that he finally felt ready to introduce. The brand’s cult hit Kikka bag came in supersize proportions, while a new pouch bag came dripping with mourning veil lace.
That Capaldo’s tailoring, outerwear, and accessories should be just as compelling as the gowns speaks to the strides he has taken. Contrary to what this season’s shadowy mood might suggest, it served as further proof that 16Arlington isn’t just a brand for night owls. “There’s that old saying that the night is always darkest before the dawn, and even if it’s a bit of a cliché, I think it’s quite reflective of everything we’ve gone through as a brand.
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