If you’ve only slurped ramen and udon, you’re missing a whole world of umami-rich, Italian-inspired wafu — or Japanese-style — pasta perfection
in Yokohama where General Douglas MacArthur stayed during the U.S. occupation. With limited supplies due to wartime shortages, hotel chef Shigetada Irie concocted the first napolitan spaghetti using what he had — canned tomato paste, spaghetti, garlic, bacon, and canned mushrooms — to impress his guests.
When I say ankake spaghetti is a regional delicacy, I mean regional — as in, it’s almost impossible to find outside Nagoya. In Tokyo you’ll find it atthe spaghetti offshoot of the curry rice chain Coco Ichibanya. Order the classic Mila-can , scattered with sausages and thinly sliced green peppers, or if you’re really hungry, the Pork Picatta , which features a pork cutlet wrapped in a lightly browned omelet.
If you’re going for a spaghetti gauntlet, there are two restaurants with vast enough menus to gorge victoriously. The branch of spaghetti. Sidle up to the gleaming wood counter and order a shallow bowl of spaghetti swimming in garlic-braised littleneck clams, or the Spajiro tarako spaghetti with its mountain of slivered scallions. A tip for the especially hungry: Spajiro lets you choose between small, medium, and large portion sizes without additional cost.
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