Awan ice cream is the newest outlet for chef Zen Ong’s love for Indonesia.
Zen Ong wanted to reimagine Indonesian cuisine for Angelenos, and for a little over a year, he did so with Inda, an artful tasting-menu pop-up. The former E.P. & /L.P. pastry chef grilled and smoked mushrooms for vegan rendang. He fried flower-shaped kembang goyang crackers and topped them with roe, raw scallops and a rainbow of edible petals. He buried grilled sustainable fish under curried sweet potato leaves and statuesque wisps of crisped potato.
While the pandemic stalled progress toward opening Ong’s permanent restaurant, it helped forge an entirely new partnership, one that finally made Awan’s quarts and scoops possible. In early 2020, when restaurants closed on-site service, Ong tried to pivot Inda from in-person fine dining to a more casual, delivery-based meal kit, but without investors, he soon found it was unsustainable.
In the meantime, when he was at home in Chicago, Ifergan worked as a line cook at various kitchens and began to learn more about coffee — its weights and measurements and methods. When he and his wife became pregnant with their first child, she implored him to find another line of work that wouldn’t keep him on the road.
Eventually the duo hopes to offer signature drinks: affogatos using espresso from Dayglow next door, and perhaps Awan ice cream blended into a milkshake. For now it’s simply quarts and scoops of the Indonesian coconut-based dessert, and seeing how far they can grow the business — they’re thinking of retail in grocery stores and, possibly, a designated scoop shop or national shipping.
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