Wildfires Spared Many Australian Winemakers, But the Smoke Might Not

Smoke contamination is a growing problem for the $336 billion global wine industry as uncontrolled fires break out with more severity in Australia, California and other grape-growing regions

SYDNEY—Winemaker Dennis Clarke’s vineyards didn’t burn down in the wildfires ravaging eastern Australia. But the noxious fumes that billowed from the blazes could have him trash much of the 2020 crop anyway.

Smoke contamination is a growing threat to the $336 billion global wine industry as uncontrolled fires break out with more severity in Australia, California and other grape-growing regions. Unlike some other fruits, grapes absorb smoke and those ashy flavors can end up in the wine, making it unpalatable.

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