You don’t always get what you pay for when you buy what’s advertised as sustainable, wild-caught salmon, research shows
by officials in Europe and the U.S. for allegedly illegally exchanging competitively sensitive information to control the price of farmed salmon.)
Salmon farms feed fish with processed food, which includes additives to give the fish a colored hue that can range from bubblegum pink to dark terracotta. Without additives, the salmon are gray. By comparison, wild salmon’s natural deeper color derives from a diet rich in small fish, plankton, and other invertebrates.Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
Long ago, wild Atlantic salmon—named the “king of fish” for their streamlined, powerful form—reigned rivers in Europe and in North America, from northern Quebec and Newfoundland to Long Island Sound. Each year, tens of thousands instinctively fought the tides to return to the gravel streambeds inland where they were born. But decades of overfishing, damming the rivers, chopping down the forests, and polluting the waters depleted—and in some places eliminated—salmon runs.
In its science-based sustainable seafood recommendations, Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch advises against buying most farmed salmon. Exceptions include Atlantic salmon certified by the nonprofit Aquaculture Stewardship Council , which verifies compliance with the organization’s sustainable aquaculture protocols, and salmon raised on land in giant tanks that prevent the pollution of marine ecosystems and reduce disease by continuously cleaning and recirculating the water.
Here’s how stable isotope analysis works: Every molecule in a living organism is comprised of different ratios of stable isotopes and fatty acids gleaned from the environment. As fish forage and absorb water from their surroundings, those so-called biotracers leave a “fingerprint” in the fish tissues that can be used to track their geographic origins. The scientists need a reference database of many fish fingerprints from around the world.
Chauvel voluntarily has been submitting his company’s fish to random DNA testing by Guelph scientists. “The most important thing is providing the assurance that the consumer is getting what they pay for,” says Chauvel, who worked for 25 years as tech industry executive before starting his seafood business. “The regulators aren’t requiring it, but the market seems to want it. The researchers come on a random basis, and we give them unbridled access to our products.
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