Love for Brasserie Lipp; Gael Greene and Julie Powell memories; plus, saving the L.A. Breakfast Club.
were among the critics he studied. But when news came this week that longtime New York magazine restaurant critic“Among my study material was a piece I returned to many times for its sweep, intelligence and boldness.” It was a 2000 review of Alain Ducasse’s attempt to bring three-star Michelin dining to New York at the Essex House.
“The piece glides,” Addison writes. “The insults are amazing. A roulade of sole is ‘pathetic.’ She says of a rye tuile flavored with sun-dried tomato and Parmesan and presented with much flourish: ‘I taste another just to be sure. It’s not even a big nothing. It’s a small embarrassing nothing.’” Of Greene, whose reviews frequently ran under the “Insatiable Critic” banner, Addison says, “She was a reporter but also frequently made herself a character. Her prose was unapologetically lush; she was a proud sensualist. .... In her reviews, barbs often landed like the well-made beurre blanc she must have eaten so often in the days of New York’s French-dominated gastronomy: vinegary, suave and cohesive.
What few don’t know is that, despite the film’s narrative, former L.A. Times Food editor Russ Parsons was the first reporter from a major newspaper to interview Powell about the blog, when she was about halfway through the project. In his 2003 story, he wrote, “Powell’s is not the first food blog, but it is one of the few that bears repeated reading. Most are devoted to ‘here’s what I cooked last night’ or ‘here’s where I ate out last night.
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