How can the role of a restaurant critic could change so enormously in such a condensed period of time?
that they were stepping aside after just four years on the job — a uniquely short tenure for the kind of dream job that is quickly disappearing. Ho took a few minutes to talk through their decision with me and reflect on how the role of a restaurant critic could change so enormously in such a condensed period of time.
What are my values? What kind of world do I want in this very short time that we have on this planet?So it changed your priorities as a writer, and it made you rethink whether restaurant criticism was something you wanted to do? When you started, there was pushback from some readers on the change in approach — talking about accessibility, the ethics of dining, etc. It has been noted before that your writing represented a big tonal shift from that of your predecessor, Michael Bauer.
I think there’s this idea that we — in the restaurant-criticism field and food media as a whole — take the customer perspective as a given. Like, as far as our reflection in mass and food media about how deeply entrenched in capitalism we are and in terms of the dehumanization, alienation that we participate in. That was the story for me.
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