10 wines that smell like a horse and taste like heaven.
sold in most wine stores, this Dolcetto is undeniably funky. It’s also undeniably delicious.
There was a time when few wine-drinkers—and certainly no winemakers or sellers—would have used the term “funky” as a compliment. “Traditionally, funky meant that something was off,” says Linda Bisson, a professor emeritus of enology and viticulture at the University of California, Davis. “If something was funky, that’s when you brought in the quality control people to see what was wrong.”
She explains that the sorts of horsey, barnyard-y aromas I noticed in the Bellotti wine are often an indicator of Brettanomyces, or “Brett,” a type of finicky cellar-dwelling yeast that so-called “conventional” winemakers try to keep out of their end product. But when done right, Bisson says Brettanomyces can be delightful. “With Brett, you can get a smokiness, you can get a light leather, you can get some savory, umami notes like vegetable or beef broth,” she says.
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