The chef is planning something bigger — but he promises he won’t put any burgers on the menu.
. We sat down with McGarry to hash out what went wrong, what went right, and what will happen next.
So let’s pretend we have the corpse of ye olde “fine dining” laid out in front of us, and let’s perform an autopsy. What’s happened in the last few years to change diners’ habits, and how are chefs in your position reacting to it? I don’t know about other chefs, but my first reaction has been confusion. There are styles of restaurant dining that are still working quite well. Sushi, of course. Wine bars — when we opened Gem Wine two years ago there was maybe one other wine bar in this neighborhood, and now there are close to ten. But there are other things — like the tasting menu for instance — that aren’t really feasible now in New York for all sorts of reasons.
, you’re not in charge — you choose your wine, maybe, and a course or two — but you’re not in charge; there’s a captain, there are all these servers, you are in their ecosystem.We’re in this place, I think, where for a lot of reasons, including maybe TikTok, the restaurants opening — and there are a lot of restaurants opening — are all a little bit the same, and the food matters so much less.
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