Creaminess and complexity with the convenience of a can.
down too quickly, you’re familiar with the moreish-ness of evaporated and condensed milk. They’re extra milky, toasty, almost savory in flavor. I use both with abandon—for creamy stews and sticky glazes; I even just drink it straight. So, you might understand why the fully stocked canned milk section at the store bewildered me. Why aren’t more Americans buying, cooking with, evenPeruvians are no strangers to shelf-stable milk.
My own attempts at recreating creamy Peruvian dishes also fell flat. My ají de gallina, a creamy chicken stew, was watery. My leche asada, a baked custard with a burnished top, tasted like a ghost of itself—never rich enough, too thin. Both my dad and I thought our failures resulted from lacking a “buena mano”—a good hand, the Peruvian expression for having an innate talent for cooking.
Evaporated milk is to fresh milk as demi glace is to broth. Or, caramelized is to sweated onions. Through the canning process, the qualities of fresh milk intensify, transforming the unassuming liquid into something so much more...magical. There is a place for the former, sure, but the latter brings so much more character to a dish.
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