Tastes just like childhood.
editor at large Amiel Stanek has spent years trying to help readers get dinner on the table as quickly and efficiently as possible. So when he gets to cook for himself, he likes to slow things down and be a little...extra. This is Not So Fast, a column dedicated to his favorite ingredient: time.
Say what you want about Hamburger Helper, with its dubiously long and unpronounceable ingredient list, but it is my suspicion that it is in many ways the best pasta dish that many Americans have ever had at home. This was certainly the case for me, for the first two decades of my life, anyway.
As with many convenience foods and church cookbook classics, an improved version—which is to say, more complexly flavored and perhaps a smidge more wholesome—is simply a matter of better ingredients and technique.
But more than anything else, it’s building the dish as a restaurant cook would build any proper pasta dish that ups the ante. The cooked noodles go straight from their bath into that Dutch oven full of lovingly-cooked meat and aromatics, along with a healthy scoop of starchy, salty pasta cooking water. The cheese is incorporated slowly, a handful at a time, stirring all the while until a silky emulsified sauce appears like magic—“saucy-glossy” asis fond of saying.
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