Hot fudge sundaes, perfectly stiff martinis, diner-style omelettes, and thick *stuffed* pizza. Here's where to find the best bites in Chicago.
Walking into Dove's Luncheonette in Wicker Park, I grab a stool at the stainless steel counter, and a waitress with jangly hoop earrings and bright-red lipstick plunks down a steaming mug of coffee before I can even get my coat off. Soul music drifts from the record player, and rows of tequila bottles rattle behind the bar.
The wood-paneled diner time-warps me back a half century to a dusty Rio Grande town, a place where drifters might stop in for a quick sandwich and shot under the lazily spinning ceiling fans. It's like being in a Nelson Algren novel—which is smack where Dove's draws its inspiration from: It’s named afterHere, though, the customers aren't down-and-out types, but rather tattooed and beanie-clad neighborhood folks.
, doused with spicy chorizo gravy and accompanied with sweet peas, shows how it’s done. The addictive hash, mixing crazy-crisp potatoes, blistered, can be scarfed all day. Alas, you’ll need to be an early riser to experience the flapjack covered in granola and bittersweet Mexican-chocolate sauce. Dove’s serves it sizzling in a cast iron skillet, and it's thick enough to merit the “cake” in “pancake.” An extra $1.50 gets you a fried egg atop anything on the menu.
Meanwhile, Dove’s 125 tequilas and mezcals flow from morning to nightfall. I didn’t realize so many Chicagoans drank the hard stuff before 11 a.m., but they do at Dove’s. Nelson Algren would be proud.
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