The towering Italian bread now inspires epic devotion (via Thrillist)
Attitudes toward Italian-American cuisine and communities have also come a long way. While early Italian immigrants were ridiculed by Americans of northern European descent for their love of garlic and “unpronounceable” dishes likeinto “mainstream” America while others are not is a meaningful topic for another essay. Here, I’ll just say that the pipeline for Italian-American foods to cross over was established long before bakers started selling $85 craft panettone in the mid-2010s.
It was in that era that my now-fiancé first came to celebrate Christmas Eve with my family. As a gift for my mother, who prepares no fewer thanfor the meal, he brought a panettone. Beautifully buoyant, and ribboned with candied orange peel and plump golden raisins, it bore only a passing resemblance to the unappealing breads of my childhood.
It can be tempting to glamorize the past, claiming our ancestors led simpler lives or had direct access to more authentic traditions. In actuality, foods and cultures evolve because people, their governments, and worldviews do, too. No matter how rock-hard our roots, we have to adapt. Sometimes, if you’re lucky, change comes wrapped in paper shiny enough to reflect all the people you love.
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