Before the fall 2020 menswear collections, there was Jay Gatsby and the jellybeans.
On the runways, walking the streets, and in the shops, sharp-dressed men are enjoying a menswear renaissance that mirrors, in more ways than one, the dandy period of about 100 years ago. When F. Scott Fitzgerald dreamed up the character Jay Gatsby, he created not only a symbol of a certain version of the American Dream, but also a portrait of the fashionable man of the day. Known as “jellybeans” or “sheiks,” these peacocking men were the counterpart to the liberated flapper or “New Woman.
Regardless of gender, the youths who put the “roar” in the 1920s rejected stiff Edwardian conventions, especially as they related to fashion, sex, and gender. The decade, likeitself, was ultimately nihilistic. In the aftermath of the first World War, the future seemed uncertain. Lacking faith in existing systems that had wrought such destruction, the new generation decided to live like there was no tomorrow.
Faith destroyed, materialism took its place, as Fitzgerald unforgettably captures in his novel’s famous shirt scene. “[Gatsby] opened for us two hulking patent cabinets which held his massed suits and dressing-gowns and ties, and his shirts, piled like bricks in stacks a dozen high. ‘I’ve got a man in England who buys me clothes. He sends over a selection of things at the beginning of each season, spring and fall.
The youth styles of the day were immortalized, and sometimes caricatured, in the art of illustrators like J. C. Leyendecker , Ralph Barton , and John Held, Jr. So influential was the work of the latter that it was said that people modeled themselves after his drawings. Today’s range of influence is much broader and inclusive, but there’s a red thread that connects Gatsby in his pink suits to
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