.Wesley_Morris: 'I’m just saying that my meals are a real luxury and I bless each one — even my superstitiously disease-warding, soap-washed navel orange. I’m thankful and grateful and lucky to have them. There’s a version of this story in which I don’t.'
Wesley Morris day-dreaming about canned sardines. Illustration: Margalit Cutler “I love cooking. I enjoy my meals. I love cooking for other people,” Wesley Morris says. “But I also know there’s a heaviness to it, and I don’t take it lightly.” As the critic-at-large for New York Times, a staff writer for the Times Magazine, and co-host of the recently returned podcast Still Processing, Morris spends his days thinking about what he’s consuming.
I also ate an orange and cooked four hard-boiled eggs. People who know me will be like, “He’s talking about eating an egg?” Jenna Wortham is partially responsible for this. I grew up in a house of egg-eaters. My mother looooooved egg salad. But I’m a texture person and there are just some things I don’t like because I don’t like the way they feel in my mouth. Like avocados, and I lived in California for a while.
I’ve been going to some Formaggio now for, oh my God, 18 years. I’ve learned a little bit from that store, but I’ve learned a lot from people, too, between cookbooks and friends. I also learned a lot, a lot, a lot about cooking from my grandmother, my mother, and my aunt Carol, who didn’t write anything down. They could, because they were literate people and could write anything down. But it’s mostly because black people, going all the way back, were denied being able to.
I did not tell her what I’m about to tell you. Which is that I thought, “Oh, well carrots are a perfectly good substitute.” For dates and raisins! It was not a good idea. I mean, it was perfectly good. I ate all of it. But the dates and raisins are there for a reason. It would’ve been really good to have them.I eat a bowl of oatmeal almost everyday. There are some foods that are just too good to resist.
It’s inconceivable to me that that rice and those grains that this company is selling doesn’t have some relationship to that labor. And they’re not saying it doesn’t. But, they don’t necessarily need to. It’s kind of understood. They tell you it’s from the 18th century, and we know who wasn’t doing the farm work in the 18th century. I kind of love the fact that they put it on the packaging. That can only mean one thing. This is a southern company.
We would only ever use cannellini beans, but I had the yellow eyes. They didn’t get quite as mushy as I wanted them to. I wanted a refried-bean consistency. They sort of kept their shape, which was fine, it was still delicious. It’s been kind of fun telling people about what I’ve been cooking. I’ll text friends and my sister, which is how I wound up making the pork chop. It was her family’s Easter dinner, and I was like, “Oh, I wanted to have Easter dinner with you guys, I’m also going to cook this.” She is cooking for four people, and it’s been fun in my kitchen to make reduced versions of what she’s making for my niece and nephew and brother-in-law.
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