Two of the best shows of the season — the Comme des Garcons show by the master Rei Kawakubo, and the final collection by Alexander McQueen’s creative director Sarah Burton — were the work of female designers.
Saturday evening was Burton’s last show. In September, news leaked that Burton, who was hired by Lee McQueen in 1997 and took over after he died in 2010, was departing the brand, with no immediate successor known.
The clothes imitated and emphasized breasts, vulvas and spines — a risky mode to honor femininity that can easily become cartoonish but that Burton pulled off by carefully revealing the body. Embroidery skimmed across suits and fell into long strands of fringe, caressing the models’ hands and the air around them as they walked.
The designer Rei Kawakubo, founder of Comme des Garcons, couldn’t have a more different relationship to the human body. Since 2014, Kawakubo has been making what she once called “objects for the body” — masses of fabric wrapped and stacked, which are more like sculpture than clothing.
That may not be what Kawakubo intended at all — but the point is not her intention, but her intellectual generosity. Most fashion designers are maniacal about the public understanding their visions completely, so much so that many require magazines to photograph their clothing exactly as it was seen on the runway, what’s called a “full look policy.”Kawakubo plays no such games — or rather, she plays a different one. What is important to her is to protect herself, her mind, her ability to invent.
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