We Can’t Go to Restaurants Anymore, So I Opened a Pretend One

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We Can’t Go to Restaurants Anymore, So I Opened a Pretend One
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COVID-19 has robbed us of pleasures both big and small. So author Rachel Khong decided to create 'Chez Raché’s' in her own home, as a minor defense against major grief.

It’s a time of minor disappointments that we don’t feel right feeling, because they don’t compare to the vastness and ubiquity of the world’s suffering. My husband, Eli, had a trip to France scheduled for the end of March. When it became clear that he couldn’t go, we joked that I could cook a French meal for him as consolation.

I painted, in watercolor, a menu for Chez Raché’s . And on the night of, I lit candles and played music: “La Vie En Rose” and Spotify’s “French Bistro” playlist. Making his way over from the bedroom to the kitchen, Eli wore a coat jacket, button-down shirt, and wingtip shoes. We clinked our wine glasses together. Dessert was “pepites de chocolate,” which Google Translate told me meant “chocolate chips.” I presented them in a glass dish.

By now, you’ve likely read about—or experienced yourself—the many cruel things that COVID-19 does to the human body. That it can take from us two senses—taste and smell—which happen to be crucial to the enjoyment of eating. It’s a virus that robs us of pleasure, and some of us of life itself.

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