Designer VivienneTam's spring 1997 presentation was a muted but impactful show that featured religious iconography in an entirely new format.
in fashion history—which still have an impact to this day. In this new series, writer Kristen Bateman interviews the designers and people who made these productions happen, revealing what made each one so special.
Evocative, almost shocking imagery of Buddha and Kuan Yin—the Chinese Bodhisattva and goddess of compassion, mercy and kindness—plastered onto clothing worn by the Iberian supermodel Irina Pantaeva, Frankie Rayder, and Alice Dodd. The tune “Face of Love” by Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan from the movie. Such an eclectic combination could only be found at a Vivienne Tam runway show from the mid ’90s.
The designer’s spring 1997 presentation was a muted but impactful show that featured religious iconography in an entirely new format. Digital artwork inspired by Chinese temples served as the backdrop for the runway. Kuan Yin floated on mesh dresses and tank tops, calling to the temples Tam visited her entire life growing up in Hong Kong. “It was one of my favorite collections,” Tam tells. “You know, I didn’t realize when I did the Buddha collection that it would be loved by so many people.
“I used to go to the temple all the time with my mother and I saw Kuan Yin, the goddess of mercy with such a beautiful face,” Tam adds of her inspiration behind the collection. “I thought, I would love to be able to put it on the clothes so that more and more people know about her face. Instead of going to the temple, they could just look at the person who wears each piece.
“I love my ’90s collections,” Tam says. “I think the world—and, at that time, America—really opened up. The whole world was blooming, and you could really feel freedom of expression. There were less restrictions than there are today.”But Tam’s spring 1997 collection remains significant beyond the fact that it was a personal favorite of the designer’s. In ’97, the brand opened its New York store in SoHo, followed by locations in Los Angeles and Tokyo.
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