There's only so much quality vintage fashion to go around, and American dealers are beginning to feel the bite of their own success.
The springtime opening of Hudson Yards was a study in things new and shiny. But inside the Neiman Marcus store there, a rack of vintage clothes stood out among a sea of box-fresh Balenciaga sneakers, straight from the runway Loewe handbags and floors of buffed marble and steel.
Veteran dealers extol the days of falling into a Brooklyn rag house and buying Forties rayon summer dresses by the pound. “That just doesn’t happen anymore,” said veteran New York City-based dealer Eileen Rosenberger, who sells directly to fashion designers seeking inspiration. Trading vintage has now also become a sport for the young and entrepreneurial — with online vintage dealing portals like Depop, Etsy and eBay relying on a community of sellers who are gig-economy fluent and consider clothes as one of their many money-making pastimes.
“The Internet and social media have made things much more competitive — anyone who wants to, at this point, can start an Instagram page and say they are a dealer. A lot of people start to deal and mess up the prices, which are not realistic and make the market screwy,” added Resurrection Vintage founder Katy Rodriguez — she of the vintage assortment at Neiman Marcus.
The scene at the Brimfield Antique Fair in Massachusetts, formerly a main supplier of vintage that is experiencing depleting resources. Elise Amendola/Courtesy James Veloria — a New York City vintage shop hidden within a Chinatown mall — helped contribute to demand for old Jean Paul Gaultier and Prada Sport, the latter of which was so successful that Prada reissued the brand last year to widespread fanfare. “It’s conflicting,” cofounder Brandon Veloria said of vintage’s current state. “It’s great because it’s pushing sustainability and ethical shopping to people who normally wouldn’t be caught dead in something old.
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