Vintage Chicago Tribune: Live poultry stores beckon immigrants with smells, tastes of home

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Vintage Chicago Tribune: Live poultry stores beckon immigrants with smells, tastes of home
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Vintage Tribune: 'Live-poultry stores draw immigrants for whom a barnyard odor means farm-fresh meat.'

Julius Wiezer, Kosher butcher, at a chicken market at Maxwell and Union streets, circa 1931.

“It is the American dream,” said Ray Ziyad, who has owned the store for 28 years. Born in Jordan, he was a child when he came to Chicago, scarcely imagining he would one day own his own business. Al Gordon, from whom he bought the store, which dates to 1942, recounted its history to an Associated Press reporter in 1988.

Ziyad reports that his clientele is largely Spanish-speaking and that his is the neighborhood’s only live-poultry store. Citywide, there may be fewer than a dozen, according to an online search.In 1949, the City Council debated an ordinance that would have put 250 live-poultry stores out of business for being too close to residences, schools, churches and other institutions.

Paleontologists report that the chickens were among the early domesticated animals that humans ate. It has had 6,000 to 12,000 years to tug on humanity’s heart strings, which is attested to by the variety of customs involving the bird. By Jewish tradition, a rooster is annually freighted with a man’s sins. A hen bears a woman’s. On the eve of Yom Kippur, the pious swing the birds over their heads, three times, while saying: “This is my exchange, this is my substitute, this is my atonement. This rooster will go to its death, while I will enter and proceed to a good long life and to peace.”

Its owner also had a nonkosher chicken operation. That output sold chickens for less than Shelat’s, because of the greater cost involved in kosher processing. For instance, kosher chickens have to be brined to draw out the blood that Orthodox Jews are forbidden to consume, even a drop, leaving the birds saltier than those that don’t go through the kosher process.

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