The designer paid homage to female fashion trailblazer Claire McCardell with a lively mix of picnic plaid, technical knit jersey and cotton poplin pieces.
While McCardell’s problem-solving sportswear designs may look quite formal to contemporary eyes, they were revolutionary for their time, when fashion still had rules and women were expected to follow them., McCardell was interested in the waist, but not the restrictive, cinched, haute couture version. Instead she cut dresses on the bias, added pockets and highlighted the waist with belts or sashes to give women more freedom of movement as they joined the workforce.
For her part, Burch shaped the waist with versatile technical knit corsets that could be layered over a cotton eyelet dress, a jersey button-down shirt worn with navy stripe pants, or even a T-shirt and jeans. She borrowed from the dance world in her use of jersey — on a black cap-sleeved top with wraparound sash over an orchid jersey skirt, and the black jersey dropped waist of a kelly green grid pattern silk print full skirt.
Meanwhile, a cotton poplin sailor top, shirtdress and honeycomb eyelet full skirt had interesting topstitching, piping and windowpane grid details. Reversible trenchcoats and jersey tops were among the more effortless pieces, underscoring the designer’s mission to problem-solve. A reissue of the ballet flats McCardell created with Capezio in 1953 was a nice touch. The designer also created theIt is curious that Burch did not include expanded sizes on her runway, like nearly every other designer has this season, reflecting America’s singular contribution to democratizing fashion. Nevertheless, the collection was another step forward in elevating her brand, steering it toward something more timeless with pieces women can make their own.
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