Get hels’s recipe for tonnato, a deep, rich sauce that, when applied to sliced tomatoes, “acts a little bit like the creamy insides of a burrata, bathing the ruby slices in cream.”
It’s a little early right now for tomatoes, but my local grocery store has somehow come into a stock of wonderful ones. They are rainbow-hued, brilliantly misshapen orbs that fully sock you in the face with flavor, providing the illusion of peak summer while the rest of the temperate Northern Hemisphere catches up.
Tonnato is an Italian creation of conserved tuna whipped, with mayonnaise and a few other ingredients, into a velvety sauce like liquid gold. Melissa Clark, writing in theas “essentially tuna salad put into the blender until it liquefies.” But this is underselling the unctuous texture, and the brininess, and the strange and compelling savoriness of fish nearly transformed into something else entirely.
Tonnato is a deep, rich sauce, and when applied to sliced tomatoes it acts a little bit like the creamy insides of a burrata, bathing the ruby slices in cream. Spoon tonnato generously over the arranged tomatoes, garnish the platter with basil, and apply a few drifts of fresh black pepper, as coarsely ground as you can handle.
Depending on the appetites of those you’re feeding, one can of tuna makes about enough tonnato to dress tomatoes for four or six. Set out the extra sauce in a bowl, for eating with bread or other peak-season vegetables. Patricia Wells, the venerable chronicler of Parisian gastronomy, wrote, temptingly, of devouring “paper-thin slices of raw fennel bathed in a tonnato sauce” at the now-closed Il Cortile, but anything fresh and sweet and beautiful will do.
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