Small, hearty dumplings make this simple soup—a variation of the Chinese favorite, tomato and eggs—deeply satisfying. Perfect for a weeknight, it comes together in a matter of minutes.
Geda Tang 疙瘩汤 is a homespun delight from Northern China. Unfortunately, geda suffers from a problem of translation. All over the internet, geda is separately translated as “Chinese gnocchi,” “Chinese spaetzle,” or “Chinese dough knots,” in no small part to avoid the literal translation of geda, which disgustingly means “pimple.” I will note that this affliction of difficult-to-translate dish names is not unique to Chinese food but this is an issue we run into often.
The soup in question is a variation of the Chinese favorite: tomato and eggs. It utilizes a technique of building an opaque soup even in the absence of stock from animals or vegetables. Soups are in part flavorful because the aromatics and the savoriness is emulsified into the liquid, meaning that as it cooks, the normally immiscible fats and water all come together.
To make “dry” geda, use the same amount of flour as below , but substitute 1 cup of cold water in place of the warm water. Place the flour in a small bowl and the water in another. Using your non-dominant hand, flick some water into the flour bowl. Using a pair of chopsticks, mix the flour bowl and toss until small dumplings are formed. Repeat, drizzling the water directly into the flour and avoiding the formed dumplings as much as possible.
Heat a generous amount of oil to just cover the bottom of a medium pot, at least ¼ cup, until smoking. Add eggs and scramble, stirring quickly a few times. Let sit until the egg bubbles, about 20 seconds. Before the egg is fully set, pour the boiling hot stock into the egg so that the stock and oil collide and the soup bubbles vigorously. Be careful of any splash. Bring to a boil and add the tomatoes and scallion. Season with salt, sugar, and msg. Let the soup simmer for 2 minutes.
Now, make the geda: with the soup simmering underneath, ladle the wet dough into a slotted spoon or colander positioned over the simmering soup. Using a spoon, work the dough through the holes so that the dough gradually drops into the soup in teardrop shapes. Repeat for all of the dough. Bring the mixture to a boil again and transfer into bowls. Garnish with cilantro leaves and optional chile oil. Serve warm.
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