Food critic Tom Sietsema's favorites in February include a world-class French restaurant, Greek food and an Italian kitchen that never fails.
A flock of people speaking multiple languages crowd the foyer of the West End outpost when I show up. Despite the early dinner hour on a recent Monday, more than a few tables are occupied.“Chef was just recognized by the James Beard Foundation,” the greeter replies, which put her establishment onCheers to Ris Lacoste, a veteran of 1789, the Georgetown classic, and the late Kinkead’s, one of the best seafood restaurants ever to launch in Washington.
The arrival of L’Avant-Garde, one of the most important debuts this year, adds another star to the constellation that already makes Washington the best fine-dining destination in the country.You get what you ask for here. “Spicy means spicy,” says Mandalay owner Kyaw “Joe” Myint. The owner’s wife is Mandalay’s chef, Latt Naing, who relies on Myint family recipes. A recent delivery showed care in the packaging — pieces of cardboard separated cold and hot dishes — and encouraged future orders. Two of multiple hits included green tea leaf salad, lightly crunchy with cabbage, yellow peas and roasted garlic, and a standout curry marrying tender chunks of pork and pickled mango. The donutlike gram fritters are fluffy sops for the sauces.
Since my last meal, Nostos reopened for lunch, Wednesday through Friday, and takeout is doubly improved: Not only do orders come with the option of curbside pickup, bottles of wine are available for half-price.Obelisk
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