Andrew Hamilton of Utah microbakery Blue Lounge Array bakes all of his bread using raisin tea instead of using commercial yeast, and instead of using a traditional sourdough starter. He also kneads all of his bread by hand and delivers it to customers’ doors across Salt Lake County, from Sandy to Rose Park.
The porridge farmer's boule is photographed in the Blue Lounge Array bakery in Holladay on Tuesday, Sept. 19, 2023.Raisin “tea” doesn’t exactly look appetizing — waterlogged blobs bobbing in water. But bread leavened with the wild yeast that collects on the raisin skins and is extracted into the liquid is downright delicious.bakes all of his bread this way, instead of using commercial yeast or a traditional sourdough starter.
Hamilton was the night baker at Tulie from April 2022 to May 2023. He would make croissants and other pastries into the wee hours so they’d be fresh for customers in the morning. Today, Hamilton said sometimes he bakes for 72 hours straight without hardly a break, “but it’s fun.” Before he puts the loaves in the oven, he scores them deeply with a razor blade to allow them to expand. As the bread bakes, he pumps steam into the oven by hand so the crust doesn’t harden too early, and to improve the bread’s texture.
Bread leavened with raisin tea “has its own complexity,” he said. Compared to bread made with a sourdough starter, he said, bread made with raisin tea is a “little bit sweeter,” without any astringency or sourness. The porridge farmer’s bread is crusty and chewy on the outside and soft and dense on the inside. Thick slices are perfect for slathering in butter and dunking into hot soup. And the chocolate chip cookies — made with dark chocolate, European butter and flaky salt — are decadent treats for anytime.
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