This simple, Genius pad Thai is all thanks to NtMRKT chef KrisYenbamroong (& his grandma)
in L.A., where his pad thai could have easily involved any number of ingredients and steps—the grocery-ordering pathways are there; the line cooks are deft and committed.
“I like my sauce to be direct and sharp, which is why I use white sugar and white vinegar as opposed to the subtler palm sugar and tamarind water,”cookbook. He learned his technique from his grandma Vilai, the first chef at his family’s restaurant Talésai that would lead to Night + Market as it exists today.
The rest of Yenbamroong’s ideal pad thai is equally streamlined and precise: He prefers dried noodles to fresh as he finds them more consistent, plumped and then stir-fried in the bubbling sauce. He scrapes the noodles to the side to quickly scramble an egg so you find it scattered in soft pockets, instead of as a slick of carbonara-like sauce. He throws the bean sprouts and thinly sliced scallions into the wok just at the end, off the heat, to keep their crunch but to let them mingle.
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