El Charrito has built a cult following for its tortillas and burritos, drawing lines before 6 a.m. (via eatersf)
Located on a dusty strip of West Market Street in Salinas, California, El Charrito might not immediately stand out from the surrounding homes and businesses. But a few telltale signs hint at the restaurant’s popularity. A parking lot wraps around three sides of the standalone building — and at 11:30 a.m. on a Monday, it’s packed with muddy work trucks and passenger vehicles. A steady stream of cars shuffles in and out of the parking spots.
As Kenya Moncada puts it today, it wasn’t necessarily her grandparents’ dream to own another store like the one they left behind in Mexico. But El Charrito represented an opportunity. Still, slowly but surely, the burritos began to take off within the Salinas community. One major draw: the tortillas. Tender and with a hint of flour, they somehow achieve a pillowy texture. Every morning, as early as 4 a.m., an employee makes the flour tortillas from scratch, adding the ingredients to a hulking, industrial-sized mixer. The dough is then processed through a metal dough rounder, which divides and rolls the balls before they’re placed onto a speed rack to rest.
For instance, the eggs in the breakfast burritos are cracked by hand, just the way Kenya’s grandmother did it. Other things also follow her grandmother’s precise ways, such as the cuts of meat. The family employs two full-time butchers, who’ve worked with the Moncadas for years, slicing and trimming the meat the way Teresa prefers, even grinding meat fresh for the aforementioned chorizo.
In 2016, Kenya’s brother, Alex Moncada, returned home to Salinas from San Francisco, to help modernize the family business. The siblings decided the family should focus on what had become the market’s most popular product: the burrito. They removed the shelves of groceries and streamlined the recipe processes put in place by their grandmother — although they were met with some resistance.
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