For many Asians in the West, this fruit cream cake is pure nostalgia
blogger with a degree in East Asian Studies, Chinese people began baking Western-style pastries, breads, and cakes in Taiwan and Hong Kong. Taiwanese bakers learned to make Western-style goods during Japanese occupation in the late 1930s in the Meiji period — a time when the emperor adopted Western industrial advances and resulting cultural influences.
New York-based Taiwanese bakery Fay Da, on the other hand, traces its recipe to Taiwan. According to general manager Chi Chou, her father, Han Chou, developed the bakery’s recipe — which uses a slightly drier chiffon base instead of sponge, which produces a lighter and fluffier texture — in the United States after apprenticing under a chef at a U.S. Army base in Taiwan.
“[W]hile [East Asian bakeries] certainly serve as a delicious tether for visitors and immigrants on either side of the Pacific, their greatest treat may be the sense of community they foster for immigrant communities outside of their origin nations,” Lilian Min wrote at MyRecipes’section, referring to Paris Baguette and Taiwanese chain 85 Degrees.
Until I saw a fruit cream cake meme in Subtle Asian Traits a little over a year ago, I had no idea that it had such widespread cultural resonance. On any given evening, thousands of people who will likely never meet will sit at tables around the world, blowing out the candles on near-identical cakes. Though clearly less iconic than boba milk tea in constructing Asian-American identity, the fruit cream cake seems to signify an even larger universal Asian experience in the West.
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