🗣 'Chef Tom Heywood deserves more attention as he really is up there with the best of them.'
And it’s not just about the chef. Much of the Rattle Owl’s dynamism comes from owner Clarissa O’Callaghan who I met years ago when I found myself sitting next to her at a restaurant pop-up, where someone thought it a good idea to serve dinner to 50 people in a freezing basement with no kitchen.As the clatter bounced off the walls, she shouted into my ear that she was a human rights lawyer in London but long held an ambition to open a restaurant and was looking for premises in her native York.
We are here for lunch and for Tom Heywood’s eight-course tasting menu. Heywood arrived here some 18 months ago via the Pheasant at Harome.In an interview for The Yorkshire Post during lockdown, he credited US chef Dan Barber and his restaurant Blue Hill at Stone Barns in New York State, for what he described as life-changing inspiration .
Then sea trout that has been cured with foraged herbs, wild horseradish, rye and radish; crab tart with pastry as thin as a whisper and filled not just with crab, but other stuff too – chard and apple, aerated crab bisque, kombu seaweed, burnett leaves and chervil. I can’t claim to understand how all that comes together, I just know it is a beautiful tart.Ditto the hand dived scallop with ingredients just as baffling, the scallop glazed with apple and nicely scorched and caramelised.
Eight brilliant courses but a lot of food. I’m beginning to feel like a foie gras goose that’s been force-fed. The waiting staff ask how we like it – delicious but just too much.
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