Nothing quite compares to gelatin as an ingredient. Pectin, agar agar, none of them has that magic, lustrous mouthfeel of gelatin — or that comedic wobble
hope to convince 4-year-olds that it’s possible to take the moo out of milk. The most prominent work in this arena comes from the lab of Mark Post, a researcher at Maastricht University in the Netherlands who grabbed headlines in 2013 by eating the world’s first lab-grown hamburger.
With a major corporation’s marketing budget behind it, Jell-O became a staple of American households. By the end of World War II, families from coast to coast were preparing jelly molds out of a box, and a dessert once reserved for the ultra-rich morphed into a food for the masses. By the time Jell-O salad fell out of favor around the 1980s, gelatin the ingredient had already crept into an array of boxed goods.
One criticism of Geltor’s work is that the effort to create lab-grown gelatin will do little to reduce the consumption of meat sourced from industrial farms, since most gelatin comes from the unwanted byproducts of livestock that have been raised for slaughter. Lorestani counters that any progress — however incremental — away from the cruelty of large-scale farming is a net good.
Besides the technicalities of engineering microbes to make collagen, Lorestani and Ouzounov also obsessed over how to convince potential clients that their product was truly meat-free. Ouzounov suggested genetically engineering microbes to produce the collagen of an extinct animal, to provide ironclad proof that no living creatures were harmed in the making of their gelatin.
Geltor has had greater initial success bringing lab-grown gelatin to market for use in cosmetics, but the company remains focused on creating gelatin for food. “Cosmetics and personal care have always been the tip of the spear,” Lorestani says.
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