These were the top 10 shows from London Fashion Week's Spring 2020 season:
London can hold its head up as a bellwether of the future; after all, this is the city whose young people have generated both themovement and the grassroots Fashion Revolution organization. Both are rapidly spreading globally. What we’ve seen here is a whole new generational order of “influencers” afoot—and they can’t be stopped at any national borders.
Inside the British Fashion Council’s Positive Fashion Designer exhibition, young sustainability-solvers were put front and center for the first time. Meanwhile, in the studios of designers, there is general agreement with the protesters. Everyone’s minds and hearts are focused on the same aims: to slow climate change and come up with new business models to cut waste.
In the Brexit gloom, the focus on making exciting clothes, on individuality, and on relevance shone perhaps even more sharply now that consumers themselves are increasingly selective about what’s worth buying and what will have longevity in their wardrobes. They’re beginning to question the cost and value of clothes in a 360-degree way.
Bright and optimistic clothes emerged as London’s antidotes. The color and ease of pro-feminist dressing came up again and again: gentle volumes and vibrant shades at Molly Goddard, Simone Rocha, Victoria Beckham, Erdem, Duro Olowu. Fit-for-purpose design is one way of looking at it. At Burberry, Riccardo Tisci homed in on his intention to elevate the collection: design over generic branding. Kane sent out exceptional arguments for “keepers,” especially in eveningwear.
Topping off the week, Richard Quinn went all-out to create a dream of haute couture extravagance, a show imagined as “a fashion sanctuary, where everyone can come to be transported and celebrate together.” It was escapism, yes, and evidence of young British aspiration against the odds, too. But with the fantasy comes a down-to-earth sense of responsibility.
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