One of the most remote ski lodges in the world is pushing limits on the slopes—and in its kitchen.
you must first make your way from Calgary to Revelstoke, a five-hour, white-knuckle drive over Rogers Pass, one of the most avalanche-prone pieces of highway in North America. Then you must keep driving for another two hours to the end of a mostly abandoned road hemmed in by glaciers. After that, there’s a helicopter flight over the Columbia River, which delivers you to the lodge, spectacularly perched on the edge of the Rockies.
Most heli-skiing lodges—even those with ambitious culinary programs—rely on a system of ordering ingredients in bulk at the start of a season so that they can easily produce a repetitive menu. But the restaurant at Mica rarely repeats a meal during the entirety of a season. To the contrary, the ski lodge has upped the ante, offering something fairly unique in the industry: five-star food with a commitment to seasonal and locally sourced ingredients.
These days, the luxe lodge is coveted as much for its legendary powder as it is for its elevated culinary offerings, which include Merlot-braised elk short ribs with polenta, grilled kale, carrots, pickled fennel, and huckleberry demi-glace; and spiced steelhead trout accompanied by roasted spaghetti squash, greens, candied beet coulis, black rice, and garlic flakes.
What accounts for Pageau’s commitment to working with local products in such a challenging setting? “Of course there’s the taste reason behind it,” he says. “But we’re also supporting local people who are treating animals well and growing vegetables without pesticides. We want to showcase that even given Mica’s remoteness, we can offer an amazing culinary experience with food that comes from right here in British Columbia. We’re demonstrating that it can be done.
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