Some of New York’s best-regarded chefs are drawing design and culinary inspiration from the distant past
Inga’s Bar in Brooklyn Heights. Photo: Richard Tuschman I’m tired of food stuff,” says Sean Rembold. “I’m tired of it just being about food or about someone’s name.” Hardly the sentiment you’d expect from a New York chef who recently opened his first restaurant after decades spent working his way up the culinary ladder, culminating in an 11-year stint running the locavore kitchens at Williamsburg’s Diner, Marlow & Sons, and Reynard.
Rembold is not alone in recognizing the enduring appeal of the tavern or identifying his business as such. Some of the city’s best-regarded chefs are drawing design and culinary inspiration from the distant past, signaling a newfound appreciation of simplicity in food and atmosphere as well as of a certain low-key, unpretentious hospitality that seems much in demand in COVID-era New York.
The simple definition of a tavern is a place where you can get a drink and maybe a bite to eat. But the ultimate goal of a tavern is to make everyone from any walk of life feel completely at ease, to serve as a home away from home. What distinguishes the new breed from its forebears is a greater emphasis on food and ingredients.
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