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Tailoring has a language all to itself. Basic words like ‘cuff’ and ‘lapel’ are common knowledge. But there’s an insider’s glossary of obscure terms that can sound more like naval trivia than clothing terminology. Even the pros stumble. “I would never be so presumptuous as to say I know everything,” said Jake Mueser, a bespoke tailor in New York. Yet over time he has picked up more than enough to get by. You can too, with our guide to the lingo any self- respecting suit-wearer should know.
Not to be confused with a “peak lapel,” which angles upwardFrom the Italian for “little boat,” this upward-arching breast pocket is designed to curve with the shape of one’s chestA smaller exterior pocket sitting above one’s lower-right hip pocket. Originally sized to hold, you guessed it, a train ticketThe working buttons on sleeve cuffs. Once an indicator of a custom-made jacket, the detail is prevalent today on off-the-rack jackets, too.
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