Do you have to put guanciale in your Amatriciana and snails in your paella? Insistence on authenticity gets in the way of inventive cooking, writes columnist Bee Wilson.
What should matter in cooking a dish isn’t whether it conforms to an original recipe but whether its innovations taste goodIf you want to see how our values change over time, look no further than the kitchen.
So many things that once seemed absolutely vital about food just fade away and become an irrelevance. Take sauces. Knowing the “right” French sauce for each dish used to be one of the tests of a cook, but now in these more globalized times, few people would expect you to know your béarnaise from your soubise.
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