The highs and lows of an It-shoe: how Adidas Sambas took over the world

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The highs and lows of an It-shoe: how Adidas Sambas took over the world
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Rishi Sunak may have rendered them uncool this week, but the trainer has risen to ubiquity in the past few years. So what is it about this fairly simple design that is so widely loved?

n the train from Peckham in south London to Dalston in east London the other day, it became hard to ignore: everywhere I looked were Adidas Sambas. White ones. Black ones. ThoseThe humble Adidas Samba, once the reserve of football fans, Britpop kids and the odd skateboarder, has become as ubiquitous as battered Converse All Stars in the 00s indie sleaze years.

The Samba obsession doesn’t exist in a bubble. Look on TikTok and you will see that there is a wider hunger for nostalgia . Adam Cheung, 29, a streetwear expert and founder ofa digital zine about trainer culture, noticed that retro trainers in general started having a moment circa 2022. “Sales for New Balance, for example, increased by 115% that year alone. So when hype surrounding retro trainers began to rise, the Samba was an obvious choice.

If anything, Frost says, the quality of the Samba has improved over the years. They have not become flimsier as a result of increased demand. “They’re a really nice-looking trainer nowadays. Adidas have managed to improve them, somehow. They haven’t had a complete overhaul, they’ve just improved the making, stitching, the colourways.”

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